Spyderco Spring Replacement: A Step-by-Step Guide

This is the 36st blog of the Spyderco blog series. You can check the other blogs I wrote from here – https://spymodz.com/blogs

By Logan M. Fraser
Custom Knife Modder & Spyderco Parts Specialist
Based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada

If your Spyderco’s action feels sluggish or the lock is no longer as crisp as it used to be, it might be time for a Spyderco spring replacement. Springs are vital to how compression locks, back locks, and other mechanisms perform. Replacing a worn spring can completely refresh your knife’s feel and reliability.

As someone who modifies and repairs dozens of Spydercos each month, I’ve run into every spring failure imaginable—from snapped back lock springs to weak compression lock leafs. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to do it yourself.

Why Replace a Spyderco Spring?

Springs are under constant tension and repeated stress. Over time, this leads to:

Loss of tension (soft lockup or poor blade retention)
Rust or corrosion
Complete failure/snapping
Uneven engagement or stickiness

Replacing a spring restores safety, improves feel, and extends the usable life of your knife.

What Spring Type Does Your Spyderco Use?

Spyderco uses different types of springs based on lock design:

Back Lock Spring (Bar Spring): Common on Delica, Endura, and Native models.
Compression Lock Spring (Leaf Spring): Found in PM2, Para 3, Yojimbo 2, etc.
Liner Lock / Frame Lock: These use the actual liner/frame as a spring—no replacement part.
Ball Bearing Lock Spring (Coil Spring): Seen in Manix 2.

For a detailed breakdown of models and springs, visit: https://spymodz.com. All parts are sorted by knife model for easier navigation.

Tools You’ll Need

Torx drivers (usually T6 and T8)
Tweezers
Small pry tool or flathead
Micro pick (for spring channels)
Bench vise or clamps (optional but helpful)
Loctite (blue)

Optional:

Light oil or dry lube
Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning

Step-by-Step: Back Lock Spring Replacement

Applicable Models: Delica, Endura, Dragonfly, Native

Step 1: Disassemble the Knife

Remove pocket clip screws.
Unscrew handle scale screws.
Carefully separate scales using a plastic pry tool.

Keep your fingers away from the lock during separation—springs can pop.

Step 2: Remove Old Spring

The spring sits in a groove or between two pins.
Use tweezers to gently remove the spring.
If rusted or seized, a micro pick helps release it.

Step 3: Clean the Area

Wipe out any rust or gunk.
Clean spring cavity with isopropyl alcohol.

Step 4: Install New Spring

Align the spring ends with the grooves or pins.
Use tweezers to seat it fully into position.

You can find OEM-compatible springs at https://spymodz.com – these are made to match factory specs.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Reattach scales and screws.
Apply blue Loctite to pivot and clip screws.
Test lock engagement and blade tension.

Step-by-Step: Compression Lock Spring Tune-Up or Replacement

Applicable Models: Paramilitary 2, Para 3, Yojimbo 2

These models don’t have a separate coil spring but use a leaf-style spring cut into the liner.

When to Replace:

If the lock feels spongy, weak, or inconsistent
If the leaf has cracked or lost spring memory

Step 1: Remove Scales and Liner

Disassemble as normal, removing both handle scales.
Examine the compression lock leaf under good lighting.

Step 2: Inspect or Replace

If it’s just bent, gently rebend it using padded pliers.
If broken or fatigued, replace the liner.

Liner kits for PM2 and Para 3 are available at https://spymodz.com. Look for listings that include the lock leaf cut.

Step-by-Step: Manix 2 Ball Bearing Lock Spring Replacement

This is one of the trickier jobs due to the coil spring seated behind the ball bearing cage.

Step 1: Disassemble Knife Fully

Remove all handle screws.
Carefully extract the ball bearing cage.

Step 2: Remove Spring

The spring is behind the ball bearing.
Use tweezers and a pick to extract the old coil spring.

Step 3: Install New Spring

Compress the new spring slightly.
Drop it into place behind the ball bearing.
Reinstall cage.

This can take a few tries—the spring must seat squarely.

Testing and Break-In

After reassembly:

Open and close the knife 20–30 times to let the spring settle.
Check for consistent lockup and closing.
Verify no parts are rubbing or pinching.

If you hear grinding or feel uneven resistance, stop and recheck alignment.

What If I Can’t Find My Model’s Spring?

Some older or niche Spyderco models may not have springs readily available. In those cases:

Contact https://spymodz.com — I can sometimes source or custom-cut parts.
Consider donor knives if the part is out of production.
Look up model schematics (check forums like BladeForums or Spyderco’s official site)

Resource: https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/ – useful for exploded views and model info.

Preventive Maintenance for Springs

Keep knives dry and free of debris
Don’t store with blade under spring tension
Use rust-inhibiting oils if storing long-term
Don’t force lock disengagement—it fatigues springs faster

Final Thoughts

Replacing a Spyderco spring is one of those small mods that can make your knife feel brand new again. Whether you’re restoring an old Delica or fine-tuning a PM2, having a crisp, snappy action adds confidence to every use.

If you’ve got questions about your specific model, feel free to ask in the comments below. I’ll help however I can. And if you’d like me to cover a certain Spyderco topic next week—just let me know.

Explore model-specific springs and parts at https://spymodz.com. Every listing includes compatibility notes to help you get the right fit.