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Fixing Spyderco Blade Play: The Best Methods for a Secure Lockup

Adjusting a Spyderco pivot screw to fix blade play

This is the 34st blog of the Spyderco blog series. You can check the other blogs I wrote from here – https://spymodz.com/blogs

By Logan M. Fraser
Custom Knife Modder & Spyderco Parts Specialist
Based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada


Blade play is one of the most frustrating issues for Spyderco owners—especially when it develops on a knife you rely on every day. Whether it’s side-to-side wiggle or up-and-down movement, blade play can make even the best folders feel cheap and unreliable. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the most effective ways to fix Spyderco blade play and secure a rock-solid lockup. 🛠️

Why Blade Play Happens (and When to Worry)

A small amount of blade play can sometimes be harmless—especially in hard-use knives that have loosened with time. But if it worsens or impacts the lockup, it can:

  • Affect cutting control and safety

  • Accelerate wear on pivot components

  • Void resale value

Understanding where it comes from is key to fixing it:

  • Loose pivot screw (most common)

  • Worn washers or bushings

  • Lockbar or lockface issues

  • Improper assembly or tuning

We’ll go over each of these issues—and how to address them—step by step.


Step 1: Check and Adjust the Pivot

Before assuming something’s broken, start here.

Tools You’ll Need:

  • Torx drivers (T8 for pivot, T6 for body screws)

  • Threadlocker (Loctite Blue 242)

Instructions:

  1. Hold the knife closed.

  2. Slightly tighten the pivot screw with your T8.

  3. Open and close the knife a few times. Check for side play.

  4. Repeat until play is gone, then back off a tiny bit if the action feels too stiff.

⚠️ Don’t overtighten—this can cause binding or damage washers.

Use a tiny dab of threadlocker once you find the sweet spot to prevent loosening over time. You can find replacement pivots, screws, and threadlocker at https://spymodz.com, especially if your pivot is stripped or unevenly worn.


Step 2: Inspect and Replace Washers

If tightening the pivot doesn’t solve the issue, your washers might be worn out or dirty.

Types of washers:

  • Phosphor bronze: Durable, most common in Spydercos.

  • Nylon/Delrin: Smoother action but can deform over time.

What to Do:

  1. Disassemble your knife carefully.

  2. Clean the washers with isopropyl alcohol.

  3. Inspect for warping or uneven wear.

  4. Replace with OEM-style washers if needed. SpydercoParts.com carries precision-fit replacements.

Reassemble, lubricate lightly, and test the action. A worn washer can create micro-movement that mimics loose tolerances.


Step 3: Evaluate the Lockup Geometry

Up-and-down blade play is often a lockup issue—not a pivot issue.

Spyderco’s compression locks, back locks, and liner/frame locks all rely on tight geometry between blade tang and lockface.

Solutions by Lock Type:

Compression Lock:

  • Clean out any debris from the lock face.

  • Check for lock bar wear or burrs. Lightly polish with a fine ceramic stone if needed.

Back Lock:

  • Look for wear at the notch where the lockbar engages.

  • If it’s shallow or misshaped, it may need professional rework.

Liner/Frame Lock:

  • Check for lockbar travel. If it’s too far across the tang, the geometry may be worn.

  • In some cases, a locksmithing service may build up the tang and refit the lock.

⚠️ Avoid using graphite or any dry lube on the lock face—it can cause slippage.


Step 4: Verify the Stop Pin and Blade Tang Fitment

The stop pin helps secure the blade when open. If it’s loose, worn, or improperly seated, it can cause movement.

  • Make sure the stop pin is seated snugly.

  • If you notice it rattles or has space around it, consider replacing with a precision-milled pin.

Blade tang rounding (on budget or heavily used models) can also cause excessive play. While this usually calls for professional service, hobbyists can sometimes reshape the tang edge with diamond files and care.


Step 5: Reassemble with Correct Torque and Order

Sometimes, blade play stems from how the knife was put back together. Here’s the right way:

  1. Align liners, blade, and washers.

  2. Insert the pivot and lightly tighten.

  3. Install body screws and backspacer if present.

  4. Adjust pivot last, dialing in tension slowly.

Applying even pressure and not over-torquing is key to restoring a centered and stable blade.

If your original screws or standoffs are stripped or mismatched, grab replacements from https://spymodz.com—they’re sorted by model to make your rebuild easy.


Step 6: Break-In and Check Again

After any adjustment or reassembly:

  • Open and close the blade 20–30 times.

  • Check for centering, lockup feel, and smoothness.

  • Listen for clicks or grinding—these signal misalignment.

A little patience here pays off. Sometimes your knife just needs to settle in before it locks like new again. 🔒


When to Call in a Pro

If none of the above fixes the issue, your knife might need a full rebuild or part replacement.

Reach out to a modder (like myself) or a skilled bladesmith with:

  • Blade tang or lockface wear

  • Oversized pivot holes

  • Damaged liners

I’ve restored dozens of Spydercos where owners thought they were beyond saving. With the right parts and tools, almost anything is repairable.


Preventing Blade Play Long-Term 🔧

Once your lockup is secure again, keep it that way with these habits:

  • Use a dedicated tool like a Wiha Torx set (better than multitools)

  • Reapply threadlocker every 6–12 months

  • Clean pivot area monthly if you use the knife heavily

Bonus tip: Keep a spare hardware kit on hand. They’re inexpensive and save frustration during repairs.


Final Thoughts

Fixing blade play on a Spyderco is one of those rites of passage for knife enthusiasts. It’s a reminder that even great tools need tuning—and it gives you a deeper connection to the gear you rely on every day.

If your knife still feels off after trying these steps, don’t hesitate to reach out or grab exact-fit components from https://spymodz.com. Every part I offer is tested on real builds and chosen for modders who care about quality.


Got questions about blade play—or a lockup mystery you can’t crack? Drop it in the comments, and I’ll help however I can. 👇
Also, let me know what you’d like to learn about in the knife world next week!

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